By which for some time the navel exposure became a taboo and the navel was concealed. In ancient India, although women wore saris that bared the midriff, the Dharmasastra writers stated that women should be dressed such that the navel would never become visible. The ancient Sanskrit work, Kadambari by Banabhatta and ancient Tamil poetry, such as the Silappadhikaram, describes women in exquisite drapery or sari. Likewise, the stanapaṭṭa evolved into the choli by the 1st century CE. Uttariya was a shawl-like veil worn over the shoulder or head, it evolved into what is known today known as dupatta and ghoonghat. It further evolved into Bhairnivasani skirt, today known as ghagri and lehenga. Ancient antariya closely resembled the dhoti wrap in the "fishtail" version which was passed through legs, covered the legs loosely and then flowed into a long, decorative pleats at front of the legs. This complete three-piece dress was known as poshak, generic term for costume. This ensemble is mentioned in Sanskrit literature and Buddhist Pali literature during the 6th century BCE. The sari or śāṭikā evolved from a three-piece ensemble comprising the antarīya, the lower garment the uttarīya a veil worn over the shoulder or the head and the stanapatta, a chestband. The word sari evolved from śāṭikā ( Sanskrit: शाटिका) mentioned in earliest Hindu literature as women's attire. Silk was woven around 2450 BCE and 2000 BCE. Dyes used during this period are still in use, particularly indigo, lac, red madder and turmeric. Cotton was first cultivated and woven in Indian subcontinent around 5th millennium BCE. History of Sari-like drapery is traced back to the Indus Valley Civilisation, which flourished during 2800–1800 BCE around the northwestern part of the South Asia. Lady being offered wine, Deccan, 1600 CE. Apart from the standard "petticoat", it may also be called "inner skirt" or an inskirt. The petticoat is called sari ( साड़ी, ساڑی) in Hindi-Urdu, parkar ( परकर) in Marathi, ulpavadai ( உள்பாவாடை) in Tamil ( pavada in other parts of South India: Malayalam: പാവാട, romanized: pāvāṭa, Telugu: పావడ, romanized: pāvaḍa, Kannada: ಪಾವುಡೆ, romanized: pāvuḍe), sāẏā ( সায়া) in Bengali and eastern India, and sāya ( සාය) in Sinhalese. Rajatarangini, a tenth-century literary work by Kalhana, states that the choli from the Deccan was introduced under the royal order in Kashmir. The term for female bodice, the choli evolved from ancient stanapaṭṭa. This could be equivalent to the modern day sari. The word śāṭika is mentioned as describing women's attire in ancient India in Sanskrit literature and Buddhist literature called Jatakas. The Hindustani word sāṛī ( साड़ी, ساڑی), described in Sanskrit शाटी śāṭī which means 'strip of cloth' and शाडी śāḍī or साडी sāḍī in Pali, and which evolved to sāṛī in modern Indian languages. 11 Saris outside the Indian subcontinent.10 Ornamentation and decorative accessories.9 Similarities with other Asian clothing.3.1 Historic photographs and regional styles.
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